By Kelly Nicholaides
Walking through the emerald exterior into the dim-lit expanse of Donegal Saloon, you may encounter red-beards in Irish garb, a band or deejay, and generations of friends and family. The low-key atmosphere and authenticity attract rock n’ rollers, country bumpkins, rappers and hip-hoppers alike, depending on the day or night. Pints of Guinness are $8, domestic drafts are $4, microbrews satisfy discerning tastes, and Jamesons flow abundantly.
“Everyone is like family here,” says Suzette Leach, 50. “It’s like a second home, and I’ve been in about a dozen cook-offs, including potlucks.”
Every day feels like St. Patrick’s Day at Donegal Saloon, particularly in the weeks leading up to the holiday. Although there is no kitchen, food is plentiful when people bring in their creations for occasions or on a whim. Owner Kevin Wallace’s mom will bake loaves of Irish soda bread for all to enjoy on March 17. A Shepherd Pie competition on Feb. 28 featured about 12 contestants and fed a packed bar. Three judges sampled and scored casseroles based on filling quality, potato topping, overall appearance, and taste and texture. Winners received medals. Everyone celebrated with clinks, banter, and laughter. A two-man band, Billy Spanton and Kevin Ahern, played classic rock and originals.
Steeped in Irish culture, Wallace wipes sweat from his black hair, green eyes glinting as he grins and makes his rounds, patting backs and shaking hands. Fewer and smaller-screen TVs are conductive to chatting without distractions, he notes. The 53-year-old Newark resident grew up on his family’s cattle farm in Donegal, Ireland, a boggy northwestern county boasting some of Europe’s highest sea cliffs. He worked as a potato picker when he was 9 and learned to play the accordion from a blind jazz musician. Emigrating to the United States, his family settled in the Bronx. Wallace worked in bars and restaurants since age 12, washing dishes and bussing tables.
Drawing on Irish craftsmanship, Wallace ran his own lumber salvage business. He holds a baccalaureate degree in architecture from New Jersey Institute of Technology. The formal education enhances his roughhouse artistry, repurposing wood before reality shows like American Pickers popularized the craft. Seeing an opportunity in Kearny, Wallace opened Donegal Saloon in 2005. The two-inch thick hardwood floor is sourced from Ohio and Pittsburgh. The oblong bar is constructed of century-old red oak wood from an Amish barn, carved and curved to perfection. “You can grip onto it like this and lean way back, and you won’t fall over,” he hilariously demonstrates.
Reminders of the homeland decorate the entire saloon: a nostalgic “Rules of the Inn” sign; sculptures and steins; and a hand-sewn banner by Jennifer Davis, which includes the flag of Donegal, a chalice representing the bar, a violin representing music, the dove of life, helmet of strength, and heart of love.
Donegal Saloon welcomes people from all cultures and walks of life, Wallace emphasizes, adding that immigrants are welcome. “We have cross-generational and multicultural appeal,” he explains. “There aren’t too many places where you’ll see fathers and sons coming in together, Generation Z dropping in to listen to their favorite music on certain nights, and people you haven’t seen in years. We may have 32 different nationalities here in one night. ‘Donegal’ in Gaelic means ‘fortress for foreigners.’ No matter how things change, our hospitality is the same.”
Bartender Bridget Reilly, 31, has been working here for two years. “I like the wackiness of it,” she says. “It keeps it lively.”
Although Wallace has no children, he considers the children of his bartenders, bouncers, and neighborhood friends as his grandchildren. He has four siblings and nine nephews and nieces. Several of his patrons have met their spouses and celebrated their unions at his saloon, adding to the familial Donegal vibe.
Donegal Saloon is located at 337 Kearny Ave. Visit their Facebook page for information on special events like karaoke; traditional Irish music, cover bands, and original acts; dart leagues; billiards; and more.