By Kelly Nicholaides
Frank Serrano is revitalizing Big Stash’s Sub House, the Kearny landmark that served a generation, with a modern take that attracted a stream of walk-ins and phone order pick-ups on a Saturday afternoon. Just a few weeks into opening, Frank is multitasking submarine sandwich making, ringing up orders, and welcoming Kearny community members. Devoid of credit card machines and food delivery apps for now, Big Stash’s Sub House is not just about subs, but connecting with people before they rush off to the next errand, pulling a chrome stool to the wood counter, or settling in at a table.
“Is it the same (as the original)?” a customer asks. “Since I was a kid, it’s been good,” Serrano replies, smiling about a question he answers repeatedly.
Big Stash’s Sub House stayed true to its legacy. Nostalgic touches include the Lay’s chips tin and framed photos of Jersey icons. “I kept it classic, not exactly like the old shop, but you get that nostalgic feeling with the framed photos on the walls, red door frame, wood wall paneling, and original signage,” Serrano says. “You walk in and see [helper Jerry Pereira] at the counter slicing meat.”
Cold subs measure four inches thick piled with cold cuts, lettuce, tomato, onion, oil/vinegar on rolls Serrano picks up daily from Serrani’s Bakery in Orange, New Jersey. Although he kept most of the menu the same, Serrano streamlined it and “perfected” the popular tuna and belly buster subs. Andrew DaSilva has been coming to Stash’s since the 1990s and is here for a ham and yellow American cheese sub. “It tastes like the original. It’s good,” he says. “People come in and want to talk about fun memories. They reached out when they heard I was opening. Kearny is big but it’s like a small town where everyone knows each other,” Serrano explains. “I want this to be a fun, nice place to get a sub to go or hang out, sit and eat and talk sports and life.”
A 32-year-old married father of two, Serrano is a Newark native who grew up in Kearny. He lives in East Hanover with his family and saw an opportunity to revive Big Stash’s Sub House when the property became available. It cut his commute to 20 minutes instead of two hours going to Tony’s Pizza in Brooklyn, which he owns with his brother, Paul, 28.
Perpetually smiling and dressed in black athleisure clothing and New York Yankees cap, Serrano is a stickler for details, moving salt and pepper shakers on tables and removing even the slightest trace of spillage.
“My goal is to come back home and spend quality time with my wife and two children, ages 6 and 4. I saw the ‘For Sale’ sign and it was an opportunity to make a move. I was commuting to Brooklyn for eight years,” Serrano says. “The biggest obstacle was getting it done fast and making everyone happy. We did three months’ renovations in three and a half weeks.”
In the food service business since he was 16, Serrano worked at Bruno’s Pizza in Lyndhurst and Tony’s in Brooklyn and also bartended before his first business opportunity at 25 in Williamsburg.
Unfazed by chain sandwich shop competition, Serrano aims to keep his customers happy as the hype over Stash’s Sub House grows. “I don’t pay attention to what other places are doing. I’m focused on what I need to do. I don’t want to get ahead of myself, so I stay in my lane and continue building on the 50-year reputation in being one of the best sub shops in New Jersey,” Serrano reflects.
Tom Witt, 63, walked in and exchanged pleasantries and handshakes with Serrano, who has known Witt’s son since he was a kid and getting subs here. As Bruce Springsteen’s “Hungry Heart” plays in the background, Serrano bids goodbye to Witt, who departs with a tuna sub. Serrano credits his family’s strong Italian/Spanish work ethic for his success. “It’s long hours, mentally stressful, but if you have time off, every chance you separate yourself, enjoy the fruits of your labor,” he says.
